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Tucked between Munich and Salzburg, Chiemgau is where Bavaria starts to loosen its collar a little. Centred around the mirror-still lake of Chiemsee, this southeastern stretch of Upper Bavaria rolls from the soft foothills of the Alps right up to the Austrian border. It gathers together towns like Traunstein, Ruhpolding, Grassau, Aschau im Chiemgau, Prien am Chiemsee and Reit im Winkl, each with its own sense of Alpine composure.
A corner of Bavaria where time spent sitting along the reeds feels as vital as meandering through the thick woodlands of spruce, larch and fir. The air carries the scent of resin and lake water; the light shifts between silver and green. Days stretch gently here, marked less by the clock and more by the movement of clouds across Kampenwand or the echo of church bells drifting over Chiemsee.
Look up and the Chiemgau Alps draw the horizon cleanly: Kampenwand, Hochfelln, Hochgern and Hochplatte shaping the skyline with quiet precision. Down by the water, Chiemsee holds the region’s cultural heart. On Herreninsel sits Herrenchiemsee Palace, King Ludwig II’s lavish but unfinished homage to Versailles, all chandeliers and ambition. A short boat ride away is Fraueninsel, a car-free island founded by Benedictine nuns in 770, where workshops, studios and monastic calm still define the rhythm of life.
Architecture here tells its own story. Traditional farmhouses are reworked with larch, glass and stone; barns become ateliers; boutique hotels favour texture over show. In Aschau im Chiemgau, Traunstein and Ruhpolding, you’ll find makers, designers and thoughtful restorations that quietly respect their setting.
Life follows the seasons with ease. Winter brings skiing and snowshoeing on crisp white slopes; summer invites swims in Chiemsee and hikes up to panoramic ridges. In between, cycling, paragliding and lakeside wandering take their turn.