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Sleepy Sérifos feels like the island modern life forgot- such is its slow pace, very few ‘tick box’ sights and a lost-in-time feel. The fact that a Greek myth headlines the island’s history shows you how little has really happened on Sérifos. However, that there in itself is its appeal and one thing Sérifos can shout about (although of course it would never be so self-aggrandising), is its sun-baked beaches, an astonishing 50 of them, some sweetly secluded, others dotted with a low-key taverna and all met by the warm, turquoise waters of the Aegean. Here are the best spots.
North of the port of Livadi by eight kilometres, you’ll find this beauty, a golden arc of sand gently framed by the rocky cliffs. To get here is an hour’s walk from Livadi, or a bumpy moped ride, or you can arrive in style and be dropped by boat. Its name means ‘fine sand’ and you won’t be disappointed, the silky grains are baby soft underfoot, making it a lovely spot to loll for the day. Believe it or not, Psili Ammos is one of Sérifos’ more popular beaches, which is hard to believe as you’ll rarely see it overcrowded. The upside is that there’s a few shady tavernas here, so a relaxed Greek salad, fresh grilled fish, stuffed tomatoes and jug of local wine is an easy objective for lunch.
Perhaps because of the tiny pebbles that gentle move with the waves, the water quality at Vagia is excellent; expect clear shimmering emerald sea and some little colourful stones that litter the seabed, making this beach even more naturally beautiful. Best avoided during the summer meltemi winds (usually in August), at other times, Vagia, five kilometres from Livadi port, is also a lovely spot to watch the sun slide behind the headline of Aspros Kavos, giving you the perfect excuse to stay here all day. With little in the way of facilities, bring your own parasol, snacks and cold drinks.
Accessed by a dirt track on the eastern coast of Sérifos, Agios Sostis is conveniently close to Livadi port whilst retaining its own air of seclusion and beauty. On the far side of the beach, the rocky headline reaches out into a peninsula, and here scenically sits a white Greek church, framing the archetypal Cycladic scene, while on the beach, dotted tamarisk trees offer beachgoers some shade. It’s a beautiful shallow entry here into the aquamarine Aegean, perfect for families to splash about, although those who like a longer, deeper swim can hop over to Lia beach, which adjoins Agios Sostis and this more private beach has an isolated feel where clothes are optional.
In terms of utter seclusion and get-away-from-it-all escapism, northern coast beach Sikamia fits the bill. Without cafés or tavernas, even a parasol for hire, you’ll need to bring everything you require for a day at the beach with you, but it will be worth it to let mother nature showcase her jewels. A shady jumble of tamarisk trees line the edge of a mix of sandy and pebbly beach which runs down to the crystal-clear Aegean water, which reflects in a disarmingly topaz blue. Either side of you, rocky hills rise up, where glimpses of white-washed house can be seen, and you can spend your day figuring out how you can up sticks and live in a stone cottage above the beach of Sikamia in Sérifos.
Sometimes you need to get to the beach pronto. If that’s the case, when arriving by boat in Livadi port, on the south east of Serifos, you can make a beeline for Livadi beach, also known as Livadakia. Perhaps encapsulating everything that’s beautiful about Cycladic beaches, Livadi has a sweep of white sand and pebble cove, backed by the iconic tamarisk trees and in the distance a hillside rises, speckled with white-washed houses that tumble like sugar cubes down the cliff. Even better, here you’ll find quite a selection of beachside tavernas, which dish out Greek specialties from breakfast to dinner and behind this are nestled a few bars to segway nicely into night-time.