Palacio do Grilo - The Theatrics of Dining in Fabulousness

Dramatic, elaborate, sensorial and not all quite as it seems perhaps best describes the reopening of the Palacio Do Grilo in Lisbon’s eastern Beato neighbourhood. A living theatre and dining experience where everyone is an actor is a more simplified description, but among ornate, historic surroundings that pay attention to every detail.

The palace was once home to Pedro Henrique de Bragança who in the 18th century, was the 1st Duke of Lafões, an illegitimate descendant of King Pedro II whose place within the royal circle was taken away from him. Instead, he chose an alternative reality, creating the Palacio Do Grilo that would be the setting for his fanciful whims. After his early death aged 49, a notebook was discovered that laid out his plans, eventually providing a template for its 21st century owner, French millionaire and Parisian theatre owner Julian Labrousse, who was taken by the idea of this ‘dreamlike kingdom’ where everyone was free to be whoever they wanted.

Today it is a restaurant-slash-theatre-slash-immersive performance space dedicated to the arts. Quirky furniture set against traditional backdrops heightens the sense of theatrical drama and visitors can wander freely throughout the restored rooms and extensive gardens, with fanciful names such as the Academy Room, the Venus Room or the Chinese Room. Some empty are for you to create your own narrative, but many have actors seemingly caught in their own spell, which you can observe at leisure.

Restoration means the passage of time is beautifully on show, stone walls are exposed to reveal their original charm, original Portuguese painted tiles nod to the region’s heritage andartwork decorates the scene including murals by Cirilo Wolkmar Machado. Theatrics come in the form of velvet curtains, decorative ceilings and wooden floors. The eye-catching furniture which adds a modern dimension to each room is designed by Julien Labrousse, a man it would seem, with many talents.

Once you’ve explored the palacio and its many immersive spaces, performances and artwork, you may be seated for dinner, enjoying a delicate, finely crafted menu of Portuguese Frenchfusion food: shrimps, gazpacho, beef bourguignon and inventive deserts, all the while the live drama and interactive performances go on around you in intriguing forms, leaving you to sit back and enjoy the show.