Verdicchio, Lacrima and a Sparkling Red from Dante: Drinking Your Way Through Le Marche

Le Marche, sandwiched between Abruzzo and Emilia-Romagna, runs from the rugged Adriatic coast to the Apennine mountains that form the spine of Italy’s boot. The varied terrain and climate, ranging from maritime on the coast to more continental further inland, from flatlands to the steep foothills of the Apennines, produce an equally varied range of wines. They may not be as well-known as the famous Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti of nearby Tuscany, but here you’ll find age-worthy whites, juicy reds and distinctive sparkling styles.

Verdicchio is the region’s trademark grape, with two areas in particular making the best examples of this vibrant white wine, Jesi and Matelica. The Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC is the larger of the two appellations, with around 3,000 hectares under vine, on flatter land closer to the coast, in the province of Ancona. With the sea moderating the climate, the wines tend to have softer acidity, being a little sunnier and open in style. Verdicchio di Matelica DOC is a mere tenth of the size, with its vineyards sitting further inland in the hills around the town of Matelica. This more mountainous area produces a leaner style of wine, sometimes needing a little more time in bottle to reveal itself – with higher acidity and cooler-toned fruit, and often a firm, mineral character. Either one will go beautifully with whatever is fresh off the dayboat or the region’s hearty fish stew, brodetto di pesce.

The Marche’s reds are mostly made with the Montepulciano grape. Look out for Conero, a region south of Ancona that produces full-bodied styles with plum and cherry fruit, spicy complexity and firm tannins that allow them to age well – the best can rival the wines of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Further inland, you’ll find the wines of the Rosso Piceno DOC, most commonly blending the plummy richness of Montepulciano with the brighter acidity of Sangiovese. Generally softer in style than Conero, these juicy reds tend to be more approachable in youth. Both will work beautifully alongside the region’s trademark salami, ciauscolo, or local, decadent take on lasagne, vincisgrassi.

Keep an eye out for Lacrima di Morro d’Alba – a red wine that nearly disappeared but has seen a revival since the 1980s. Made in the vineyards around Morro d’Alba from the local Lacrima grape, these unusual reds are floral and aromatic, yet packed with fruit and structure on the palate.

Another local curiosity is Vernaccia di Serrapetrona – a sparkling red wine made from Vernaccia Nera, which features in Dante’s Divine Comedy. With only around 20 hectares in production, this rare and unique style is made with partially dried grapes – a little like Amarone. The resulting wine combines spice with juicy red fruit and ranges from dry (secco) to sweet (dolce) in style. Visit the Alberto Quacquarini or Colleluce wineries to learn more about how it’s made and taste this distinctive fizz in situ.

Hillside vineyards overlooking the rolling landscape of Le Marche, Italy, with morning haze over the Apennine foothills

Winemaker holding a bunch of freshly picked Montepulciano grapes at harvest, Le Marche Italy

Wooden harvest crates stacked with freshly picked dark red grapes during vintage in Le Marche, Italy

Vernaccia Nera grapes hanging to dry for Vernaccia di Serrapetrona sparkling red wine production, Le Marche Italy

Brunori San Nicolò Verdicchio di Matelica Classico being poured at a wine tasting evening, Jesi, Le Marche Italy

Where to stay?

Stay at the beautiful Filodivino and the region’s wineries are all within a short drive. If you’re looking for places to drink or buy the wines to take home, add Enoteca Pasqualini in Ancona and Enoteca Brunori in Jesi to your itinerary. Look out for wines from producers such as Umani Ronchi, Garofoli, Villa Bucci, Le Terrazze, Sartarelli and Moroder, as well as – of course – Filodivino itself.