Long live Lambrusco: rediscovering Emilia-Romagna’s superb sparkling wines

If you are aware of Lambrusco, it may not be for a good reason. In the 1980s, all too many overly simple, sickly sparkling reds made their way out of Emilia-Romagna and landed on the UK’s shelves. Like the cheap and rustic fiascos from Chianti, oh how those wines ruined Italy’s vinous reputation for a whole generation. Put any such thoughts out of your mind, however, for today, a host of smaller producers is crafting serious site-driven wines and redefining the style of Lambrusco.

Lambrusco is the name of the grape – in fact a group of grapes, with at least eight closely related but different Lambrusco varieties found across Emilia-Romagna. By far the most widely planted of the Lambrusco siblings is Lambrusco Salamino, but Lambrusco Grasparossa and Lambrusco di Sorbara are also well known. Each of these genetic twists of Lambrusco offers its own slightly different profile, often tied to a specific area of the region, and style of wine – with their own distinct appellations. For example, Lambrusco di Sorbara tends to be lighter, dry and fresh in style, while Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce combines floral scents with riper fruit and a dusty tannic grip. Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro is notably rich and full, with firmer tannins, and often a little more residual sugar.

The wine can be made in a range of ways. The vast majority is tank-fermented, as for Prosecco, but many quality-focused producers are using the Champagne method, or ancestral method (as for pét-nat), meaning the second fermentation that produces the bubbles takes place in the bottle. This method produces additional layers of flavour, and leaving the wine to rest on its lees (the dead yeast cells) will develop further complexity. At Cantina della Volta, for example, one of the top wines spends over seven years on lees (that’s more than twice the legal minimum for vintage Champagne). For modest wines, this effort and investment once seemed foolish – but that is slowly changing.

Most importantly, the new wave of Lambrusco producers is focusing on the vineyard – working to produce the finest fruit that can then translate to the finest wine in the bottle. The attention to detail is higher than ever before, with winemakers crafting wines of balance and freshness, with much lower sugar levels than were once the norm. Forget rustic sweet red fizz, these modern wines are often paler in colour, sometimes even made as a white (as for Blanc de Noirs Champagne). They are elegant, bright and deserve to be thought of as serious sparkling wines.

From vibrant whites and rosés to perfumed and even powerful reds, Lambrusco now runs the full gamut in style – but they can all be delicious. The typically light and juicy sparkling red remains the standard-bearer for the region, and the best combine floral perfume with juicy cherry fruit, bright acidity and a touch of sweetness. Often delicious alone, they are also the ideal partner for the local food, cutting through its richness – from chunks of aged Parmigiano-Reggiano with its salty crystals and classic prosciutto di Parma to cotechino and lentils or gnocco fritto. To get a taste of the style at its best, look out for wines from the likes of Medici Ermete, Paltrinieri, Cleto Chiarli, Fattoria Moretto, Venturini Baldini, Cantina della Volta and more.

Aerial view of Lambrusco vineyards in autumn red across the Emilia-Romagna plains at golden hour, Italy | The Aficionados

Winemaker tending Lambrusco vines at harvest in Emilia-Romagna vineyard, Italy | The Aficionados