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Dr JP McMahon is that rare creature who refuses to stay in one lane. A self-taught chef with a PhD in drama and theatre, he writes, paints, cooks, lectures and still finds time to play the piano, badly and brilliantly in equal measure. He is the mind behind Aniar in Galway, the city’s Michelin-starred restaurant, and the driving force behind Food on the Edge, the international food symposium that made Ireland impossible to overlook on the world’s culinary map.
He is also a playwright, columnist and author of An Irish Food Story, his latest book that reads less like a cookbook and more like a manifesto for how Ireland should see itself: intelligent, raw and fearless. McMahon has never been one for quiet kitchens. His are filled with ideas, debate and the occasional philosophical tangent on the meaning of soup.
At Aniar, everything begins and ends in the west of Ireland. Wild herbs, Atlantic fish, smoke, salt and the shifting seasons form the backbone of a cuisine that is both ancient and experimental. His food is elemental and theatrical, deeply Irish yet never sentimental. He cures, ferments and pickles like a man composing a score, each flavour tied to landscape and memory. It feels part laboratory, part poetry reading, part dinner.
When he is not in the kitchen, McMahon is building bridges. Through Food on the Edge, he has gathered chefs, artists, writers and thinkers from around the world, creating a space for real conversation about food. Galway became a global stage because he decided it could be. That sort of creative audacity changes a culture.
Now, the story moves north. This April, McMahon brings his creative energy to Donegal for The Far Edge of Ireland Experience at Breac.House, a limited spring gathering of dining, design and elemental adventure on the Wild Atlantic Way. Expect fire, flavour and philosophy by the sea.
McMahon is the kind of Irish storyteller who does not simply cook; he provokes. He questions the familiar and reshapes it until it feels new again. Whether on a plate, a page or a stage, he reminds us that Ireland’s food is not polite or nostalgic. It is alive, complex and beautifully untamed.