Galle

There’s no where quite like Galle in all of Sri Lanka. A pocket-sized city, it oozes a faded boutique appeal alongside a patchwork of architectural styles that span the colonial spectrum from the Dutch, British and Portuguese fused with South Asian design as seen in churches, temples, lighthouses, hospitals and villas. Once a busy trading port well before European influence, Galle was a crucial stop servicing the to’s and fro’s of trade between Arabia, India and Southeast Asia.  Today, the architectural monuments of times past are artfully crammed along the narrow, cobbled streets in a maritime heritage melange that’s a pleasure to stroll around.

The heart of Galle is UNESCO-protected Galle Fort, the once-thriving and important trade hub, constructed by the Portuguese in the 16th century and fortified by the Dutch in the 17th century. The protective walls, gateways and ramparts that kept out attackers-of-yore make for easy wandering at the end of the day, alongside local Sri Lankans on an evening stroll and the odd daredevil cliff jumper.  The inner streets are peaceful, certainly with a lost-in-time feel yet also by contrast full of bits of interest for the tasteful traveller. Stop by artisan shops for hand-made notebooks and crafted jewellery from the gems Sri Lanka is known for, shop for spices to take home and colourful woven fabrics. Savour a rooftop cocktail or seafood curry feast in a restored colonial villa.

Eye-catching sights indicate the fabric of this woven, interconnected little city. First to arrive, the Portuguese made their presence felt in the 16^th century with the eastern fort wall, Zwart Bastion. The Dutch captured Galle and extended the fortifications, spot the 18th-century Dutch Reformed Church, recognisable for its curved gabled façade in white. The Anglicised 19^th-century British All Saints church stands out for its spires, stained glass windows and traditional cruciform floor shape. The attractive lighthouse presides over Galle, tall and whitewashed, it was built by the British in 1848 to help guide ships into the harbour. 

Galle is not just a city frozen in time; it also hosts the Galleal, a cultural event that draws in the literary elite every February. Since its inception in 2007, the festival has featured a d Literary Festiviverse range of speakers, from Kate Moss to Sathnam Sanghera. The festival's off-shoot events, including Gourmet Galle and an Art Trail, further enrich the city's cultural landscape. 

Just outside of Galle sits another temple – this time a modern homage to cricket, the international stadium – a sport revered by Sri Lankans. If you can’t catch a test match here, head to the nearest beach, where you’ll be welcomed into a friendly match, although a healthy rivalry keeps the game spicy. 

Whether you come to Galle for curry, cricket or curio shopping, find a pleasing and peaceful time-warp town that’s stylishly addictive.