Istria

Jutting out of northwest Croatia, Istria is the pointy peninsula that acts as a junction between eastern and western Europe; its near neighbours are Venice - just over the water in Italy and behind is the hilly greens of Slovenia. The rest of Croatia runs down the coastline southwards towards Dubrovnik and beyond. 

Istria’s placement is crucial to understanding its hybrid culture and historic positioning. Firmly on the map in Roman times, the coastal region also saw influence from the Illyrians, Byzantines, Venetians and Austro-Hungarians, each contributing to Istria’s diverse landscape. The Roman amphitheatre in Pula, constructed between 27 BC and AD 68, is one of the world’s most well-preserved arenas with its four side towers still in situ; today you can catch an opera or ballet within its ancient structure. The 13^th century saw the Venetians come over the water, bringing their distinct sense of architecture seen today in ornate churches, defensive fortifications, plazas and townhouses. Drop into any restaurant and instantly see the influence of Italian culinary presence including homemade pasta, risotto and gnocchi with an Istrian spin adding local treasures like truffles, seafood and fish.

Medieval hilltop towns are also Istria’s forte from the sea-bound beauty Rovinj topped by the Baroque church of St. Euphemia to rural walled town in Motovun. The coastline is made up of rocky coves backed by pine trees and pebbly beaches, lapped by the impossibly clear Adriatic. Out at sea, a sprinkling of islands allow Istria to show off - Brijuni National Park is perfect for a day out on the boat dropping anchoring for snorkelling or docking on land to find archaeological ruins from late antiquity hidden on verdant islands. 

Inland things become more agriculturally focused with groves of olives and orchards full of fruit plus vineyards that produce robust reds and dry white malvasia. In the east, Učka nature park is presided over by Mount Učka with views over chestnut forests, waterfalls and ancient terraced gardens. From this eastern coast of the Istrian peninsula, access larger Croatian islands such as Krk, Lopar and Cres, which despite their size are off-radar and full of local charm.