Queen of Dumplings – Vienna's Humble Legend

Zur Herknerin in Vienna's Wiedner Hauptstraße 36 (fourth district) is not draped in gourmet stars (although it should be), but rest assured, this humble spot of dining culture is an absolute legend in Viennese dining circles – and deservedly, one of the hardest places to get a reservation. 

Stefanie Herkner is the bubbly soul and foodie pioneer who makes her namesake place, 'To the Herknerin,' so fabulous. She is the charismatic owner, cook, publicist, landlady, and hostess, dancing around the tables and greeting her diners like long-lost old friends returning home (which frankly makes up 90% of the crowd).

Stefanie, affectionately known as the Queen of Dumplings, offers a unique culinary experience that blends traditional Hausmannskost with contemporary twists. Her dishes, made with good honest, organic ingredients largely sourced from her family farm, are a delight for the taste buds. The menu, a stroll down memory lane for Viennese and Habsburger cuisine, is a testament to her innovative approach to traditional recipes. 

Stefanie Herkner grew up watching her father, famed Austrian chef Heinz Herkner, in the kitchen, and four years ago, she opened her own restaurant, billed as a contemporary inn. But this, again, is not your typical foodie den; housed in a former plumber's company, Stefanie Herkner has fulfilled her lifelong dream. The industrious facade and the neon lettering, which are original from the 50s, is a nostalgic nod to the past, as indeed are the restaurant interiors populated with her finds from curiosities and antique heirloom pieces from the farm to edgy artworks - akin to the creative scene of Vienna.

What to order? It's a difficult challenge. It's best you go a few times to try everything. Particular must-have plates include Sarma-Serbian cabbage roulade with parsley potatoes and cream. Or opt for the insanely popular and equally delicious homemade organic spinach dumplings with brown butter and Grana. Leave some room, though, for her signature dish of organic curd dumplings with Holler plum roaster. 

You need a reservation here. The hotspot is only sometimes open, and you will need to run to the ATM, as it is a cash-only policy. 

Stefanie's place is a must if you want an uncomplicated piece of Viennese culture, Mahlzeit amigos.